This post spans almost 9 years of hiking around Tobermory on The Bruce Trail and showcases a bit of every season.
Tobermory is located at the top of the Bruce Peninsula and offers visitors fresh, clean air, gorgeous scenery, tranquil waters, and the darkest sky’s in southern Ontario. Until European colonization in the mid-19th century, the Bruce Peninsula was home to the Saugeen Ojibway nations, with their ancestors reaching the area as early as 7,500 years ago.
Almost completely surrounded by water – Lake Huron on one side and Georgian Bay on the other, Tobermory is a naturalist’s haven, having two national parks – Fathom Five National Marine Park and the Bruce Peninsula National Park – close by.
The community is known as the freshwater scuba diving capital of the world because of the numerous shipwrecks that lie in the surrounding waters, especially in Fathom Five National Marine Park. Everyone, from the novice snorkeler to the most advanced diving enthusiast, can find lots to explore and enjoy within the park. Note: It’s pretty cold snorkelling so I’d wait until August to go snorkelling.
Additionally, the MS Chi-Cheemaun passenger-car ferry connects Tobermory to Manitoulin Island in Lake Huron.
Tobermory is also the northern terminus of the Bruce Trail, and has twin harbours, known locally as “Big Tub” and “Little Tub”. Big Tub Harbour is Canada’s largest natural freshwater harbour. More on the tubs later in the post…
From here, the incredible Bruce Trail wanders along the majestic cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment along the Georgian Bay coast. There is nothing more breathtaking in Ontario than standing on a rock outcropping which towers 200 feet above the waters of Georgian Bay.
I’ve hiked this several times with Tom and with Yim and each time is as if I’ve never seen it before.
I remember the first time we saw The Grotto in 2011, we simply could not believe we were in Ontario and not the Caribbean. The waters are turquoise and so clear that at one point, I was snorkelling and told Yim I was going to touch the bottom and down and down I went but could not reach it. The illusion created by the clarity of the water led me to believe the section I was free diving in was maybe 30 feet deep but it was far greater than that.
In 2013, Tom and I spent two full days hiking in to The Grotto and along the coast north towards Tobermory until we were stopped by a large promontory, jutting out into the waters and then we headed back. That section took us almost 6 hours in and out and we were bushed when we were done. But the next day, we decided to start in Tobermory and try and reach that section to no avail. The rain came and the trail was muddy and slippery but beautiful.
I’ve learned there are no bad seasons along The Bruce Trail, only different conditions.
Tom and I also hiked this trailhead from Indian Cove to Half Log Dump in 2015 when we rented a Yurt for two nights and Yim and I have hiked here from Half Log Dump.
We’ve also visited The Grotto in January and it is exquisitely beautiful in the winter months. In the summer, the geology is more obvious but January allows you to see the force of nature at work, as the waves coat the spruce trees with water and they become white statues.
Carved from the natural stone over thousands of years of erosion, the Grotto has become one of the most popular destinations in Bruce Peninsula National Park. It is accessible both from the cave mouth at lake level and via a rocky chimney which can be found just off the main trail. The interior of the grotto itself is an open cave filled with amazingly blue turquoise waters. The waters are made even more stunning and vibrant thanks to the light that emanates from an underwater tunnel in the grotto.
In my opinion, hiking in the winter is the best. There are very few people and the trails are well packed and the landscape is incredibly beautiful.
Little Tub and Big Tub Harbours
If you like to shop or just take a walk, Little Tub Harbour has something for everyone. Little Tub Harbour is the location for the Tour Boats, souvenir shops, dive shops, sweet shop, pubs, restaurants, clothing & craft shops. Some of the boats that visit Little Tub are outstanding and it is enjoyable to just sit on the dock with a sandwich from the Crows Nest or Foodland Deli or munch on brittle or an ice cream and watch the hustle and bustle of a busy summer’s day.
Tobermory is unique in that it has two harbours. The second harbour is called Big Tub.
A visit to Big Tub Lighthouse is always a good spot while visiting. The lighthouse was originally built in 1885 when the Department of Marine bought the lots for the lighthouse and constructed the lighthouse to prevent ship accidents as the entrance to the Tobermory Harbour was hard to navigate and was often used as an asylum from bad weather. It should be noted that the Lighthouse is surrounded by private property and access to the shore is only permitted at the Lighthouse itself.
Or sit on the decks of Big Tub Harbour Resort, enjoy a meal and watch the boats come in and out of the Harbour.
Manitoulin Island
As mentioned at the beginning of this post, the MS Chi-Cheemaun passenger-car ferry connects Tobermory to Manitoulin Island. I’d been wanting to visit for several years now and recently, we managed to coordinate some sunshine with the fall colours and grabbed a reservation and sailed from Tobermory to South Baymouth on the island. We also got to see another part of Tobermory as we sailed out and around the tip.
To read more about Manitoulin, please read my post.
The name of the island, Manitoulin, is the English version of the Ojibwe name Manidoowaaling, which means “Cave of the Spirit”. It was named for an underwater cave where a powerful spirit is said to have lived.
Stay and Eat
The Adventure Inn is conveniently located on Hwy. #6. Just a few minutes walk from the Little Tub Harbour in Tobermory, on the Bruce Peninsula. The Inn is close to many of the attractions of the Upper Bruce Peninsula and minutes from the two National Parks and the Parks Canada Visitor Centre.
Shipwreck Lee’s. We also ate here one night and really enjoyed ourselves. Open for over 36 years, Shipwreck Lee’s is a Tobermory staple and a must-visit spot for fresh fish and chips along the harbour. Serving all you can eat or a la carte, this local spot serves everything from fish and chips to chicken and ribs, poutine, deep-fried pickles, and their famous heaping spaghetti.
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