The Broken Islands Group is a group of small islands and islets in the middle of Barkley Sound on the West Coast of Vancouver Island.
The group is protected as the Broken Islands Group Unit of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, which includes Long Beach, between Ucluelet and Tofino to Barkley Sound’s northwest, and the West Coast Trail between Port Renfrew and Bamfield, which is to the southeast.
The Broken Islands Group consists of over 100 islands, islets and rocky outcrops scattered in the centre of Barkley Sound, between Loudoun Channel and Imperial Eagle Channel, and totals 10,607 hectares, of which only 1,350 hectares is land. The popularity of these islands with paddlers and boaters has soared over the past decade, much to the dismay of longtime observers.
One of the main reasons that the Broken Group Islands are so popular is that they provide a true west coast experience in sheltered waters. The Group is known internationally for akayaking and wilderness camping enjoyed by organized adventurers seeking escape to the remote and desolate islands within the park.
We visited twice while we lived on Vancouver Island.
Our two routes – From Ucluelet and Port Alberni
Ucluelet and Back
The first time, we drove to Ucluelet and took a zodiac out to and through the Broken Islands to look for Grey Whales and were thrilled to come face-to-face with a large group of Stellar Sea Lions.
The male, or bull, Stellar Sea Lion is a huge animal, growing up to three metres in length and weighing up to 900 kilograms. In contrast, the females are only about a third as large, and give birth to one pup after a gestation period of one year.
The Stellar sea lion, also known as the northern sea lion, is a threatened species of in the northern Pacific. It is the sole member of the genus Eumetopias and the largest of the eared Seal (Otariidae). Among Pinnipeds, it is inferior in size only to the Walrus and the two Elephant Seals. The Stellar sea lion has attracted considerable attention in recent decades due to significant, unexplained declines in their numbers over a large portion of their range.
It was a thrill to get up close to these incredible mammals so comfortable in and around the water.
We were also hoping to see Gray Whales, and we did but the visibility was so bad, and it was pouring rain when we spotted them that there was no way to get a decent photo.
Stellar Sea Lions
The MV Frances Barkley
The second time we visited was aboard the MV Frances Barkley.
Built in 1958 as a Norwegian ferry, in 1990 she began to serve the communities along the Alberni Inlet with the Lady Rose Marine Services. The passenger and cargo vessel is based in Port Alberni, and travels between Port Alberni, the Broken Group Islands, and the fishing ports of Ucluelet and Bamfield during the spring, summer and fall.
Port Alberni is not normally subject to the extreme ocean conditions found further west in the open waters around Ucluelet and the exposed sections of the West Coast Trail and the Long Beach Unit, which are the two other areas that attract visitors to Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.
The ease with which less-experienced sea kayakers can reach the Broken Group Islands on the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni and Ucluelet contributes greatly to their allure and charm.
During the day’s trip, the sturdy wooden packet freighter drops mail, groceries, supplies in Bamfield, and the occasional passenger along the way at the float homes and the Sechart Whaling Station.
At times you’ll definitely feel the motion of the ocean swells, but the better part of the journey through Barkley Sound is not exposed. The trip makes a pleasant outing in itself, or can be a link for paddlers to the Broken Group Islands.
We had a beautiful day on the day we started, so we both just sat back and enjoyed the slow passage out through the fjord-like setting.
Many of you may not know that much of Vancouver Island is remote, especially along the western edge. With deep fjords and inlets, and rough, dangerous logging roads, maintaining connections to the outside world and bringing in essentials can be challenging.
The MV Frances Barkley is the only safe way to deliver passengers and freight to the many people who live in waypoints and the community of Bamfield.
In winter, weather makes overland roads impassable.
Boats are the only way to deliver medical supplies, building supplies, food and other important goods, as well as offering mobility to the First Nations along the route.
Onboard, there is a simple coffee shop in the ships galley which serves hot beverages, basic alcohol, sandwiches and burgers. There are plenty of places to hangout on the ship, so you can change it up throughout the day. There are also tons of cool ship details to observe, and I loved the historic feel.
Bamfield
They call it a tiny resort hamlet – nestled in a protected inlet on the south shore of Barkley Sound. It’s best known for its superb salmon and halibut fishing adventures. This tiny fishing and harbour village, which is heavily populated by marine biologists, is a quiet, unassuming village where the love of the land and sea prevails.
It is also home to the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre
Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre is a world-class teaching and research facility located on the outer west coast of Vancouver Island, Canada, situated in the traditional territory of the Huu-ay-aht First Nations, a Nuu-chah-nulth Nation and member of the Maa-nulth Treaty Society.
The Marine Centre is recognized as among the very best research and training facilities in the world.
The Bamfield community, with a population of around 200, is surrounded by Crown land, Indian Reserves, and portions of the Pacific Rim National Park, ensuring protection of unspoiled marine environments from excessive development.
Once the boat stops in Bamfield, you only have about one hour of exploring. The captain makes an announcement which recommends you either walk their waterfront boardwalk or take a short trip to Brady’s Beach and spend your time there. You don’t have time for both, so you’ll have to choose.
We chose Brady’s Beach (above).
For us, this was well worth the day trip, expecially if the weather treats you like it treated us.
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