Aloha Kauai
2010 was the year we visited Kaua’i…
Wow !
When we were doing our research on where to stay and when to visit, the north shore town of Haena sounded perfect to us and the books we read all said it rained considerably in the winter so we chose July and rented a small VRBO cottage about a five minute walk to Haena Beach.
Kaua’i is the oldest of all the main Hawaiian Islands, dating back some 5.1 million years.
The island is nearly circular in shape with a land area encompassing 533 square miles, which is 25 miles long by 33 miles wide at its furthest points. Of volcanic origin, the highest peaks on this mountainous island are Kawaikini, at 5,243 feet, followed by Mount Wai’ale’ale near the center of the island, at 5,148 feet above sea level. The wettest spot on earth, with an annual average rainfall of 450-470 inches, is located on the east side of Mount Wai’ale’ale. This high annual rainfall has eroded deep valleys in the central mountain, carving out ridges, canyons, and valleys with many scenic waterfalls.
Today, there is no known meaning behind the name of Kaua’i, but native tradition suggests the island was named after the son of the navigator who discovered the Hawaiian Islands.
Kaua’i really is a true hidden gem of sorts. Over 90% of the island cannot be reached by road. In fact, the most beautiful part of the whole island has no road near it. Kaua’i has roads stretching around it from the northwest coast, starting at Ke’e Beach, moving clockwise along the eastern coast and then around to the west coast through Hanapepe and Waimea. Finally, it heads north up to the ridges of Waimea and Koke’e State Park overlooking the inaccessible Na Pali coast on the west side of the island.
There is no way to drive from Waimea/Koke’e to the starting point, and there likely never will be (you’ll have to turn around, just like we did).
About Haena
Haena is a small community on Kauai’s north shore along one of the most picturesque stretches of coastline in all of Hawaii. It is located near the end of the road where the famed Na Pali Coast begins, and is is known for its lush, tropical surroundings including steep-walled mountains lined with waterfalls and pristine white-sand beaches.
It had taken us most of the afternoon to get here after off the plan and picking up our luggage, finding our rental Jeep, buying some provisions in Anahola on the way and stopping to take a few photos.
Along the drive we passed multiple scenic lookouts and try as I might, I just had to slow down and take a look, even knowing that we had the Jeep and would be able to come back and enjoy the spots. Anahola, Kahiliwai, Kilauea, the names alone made me want to stop.
As we neared Hanalei, we came across a viewpoint where we could see the Na’Pali Mountains and we knew we were close to Haena at that point.
When we arrived, the little house on stilts was exactly as advertised, complete with surfboards under the canopy. We were tucked away a few minutes from the beach, with a view of the Na’Pali Mountains from our window.
Tunnels Beach
One of the several fine Haena beaches is Tunnels Beach (above), also called Makua, where an offshore coral reef forms a protected ocean lagoon. It is a picture perfect, two-mile stretch of golden sand fringed with ironwood trees and tropical palms.
“Tunnels” refers to the lava tubes that run through the reef and into the ocean and provide an excellent habitat for sea turtles, often swimming along the reef or resting in small caves. This is one of Kauai’s best snorkelling and scuba diving sites due to the many underwater caverns and ledges. It has an excellent coral reef that goes right up to the shore, coming within a few feet of dry land at low tide.
We went for a snorkel on our first morning and Yim got to swim with turtles in the ocean for the very first time. It was a good morning.
Below I’ve included a couple of the aerial photos I took of Tunnels Beach during our helicopter tour.
Waimea Canyon
On our third day, we decided to head off to Waimea Canyon.
Waimea Canyon is a spectacular gorge with a unique geological history. It was formed by the steady process of erosion by the Waimea river, which cut deeply cut into the island’s extensive lava and basalt fields.
Waimea, which translates from Hawaiian to English to mean “reddish waters,” gets its moniker because when it rains, the red rock runs off into the water, turning it slightly red as it flows down and out of the canyon towards the sea. You will see from my photos below, just how red the soil really is. The canyon itself is about 14 miles long, a mile wide, more than 3,600 ft deep, and is enclosed within the Waimea Canyon State Park.
The road winding through Waimea Canyon is one of the most scenic roads on Kauai, making a visit to the park a Must Do.
Traveling this 67 mile journey took us almost three hours and along the way, we stopped in Hanapepe to do a little town shopping. While there, one of the ladies in a bakery asked where we were going and we told her and then she asked where we were staying and we said Haena. This lady was probably in her 60’s at the time and she surprised us by saying, “I’ve never been to that side of the island”.
After a quick lunch, we continued along our way, but that lady was something we talked about for a while. 67 miles and she had never been to that side of the island – Wow!
On our way, we also happened across Glass Beach near Port Allen Harbour in Ele’ele. Glass Beach, as the name implies, is covered with millions of sea glass pebbles in brilliant hues of aqua, blue and brown. The glass at this beach was mainly created from broken bottles and auto glass that was dumped years ago, and subsequently smoothed by time and ocean tides. After a little visit, we continued along our way. We left everything right where it was…
The Kalalau Valley Lookout
What we had really come to see was the Kalalau Valley Lookout, an awe-inspiring vantage point. Perched at approximately 4,000 feet, the Kalalau Valley Lookout is located in Koke’e State Park, this lookout contrasts the island’s coastal scenery dramatically. As you ascend the mountainous terrain, you’ll gradually leave behind the sun-soaked beaches and step into the cool, misty embrace of the uplands.
Be prepared to be rendered speechless. The sweeping vista before you is nothing short of mesmerizing. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the Na Pali Coast reveals its secrets. Steep, rugged sea cliffs—carved over eons by the relentless Pacific Ocean—plunge dramatically towards the sea below.
The centerpiece of this scene is the Kalalau Valley itself, a lush, U-shaped wonderland. Verdant slopes covered in a tapestry of vibrant greens lead down to a valley floor adorned with taro fields and crisscrossed by meandering streams.
When we arrived, it was completely fogged in and while we could walk the path towards the lookout, we could hardly see anything. Even standing on the edge of the lookout, it seemed like there was nothing in front of us. After 15 – 20 minutes we thought, well, let’s make our way down and visit that small museum we saw along the road and got in the Jeep and started down but within minutes, the winds picked up, blue sky appeared above us and we raced back up as the valley cleared. It was as every bit as stunning as my description above.
Plan to Pay the Fee
As a visitor to the island, you must pay for entrance and parking to visit Waimea Canyon State Park. You will need to cover the $5 entrance fee for each person in your car over the age of three. Kids under three are free. In addition, you must pay a $10 per vehicle rate for parking if you’re driving a non-commercial vehicle. You only have to pay one fee for the day and it covers the drive plus parking at all of the overlooks, trailheads, and other lots. The pay stations are located in all the parking lots, making it easy to get your passes.
Pack Up Your Ride
You will not find any restaurants, grocery stores, gas stations, or other stops once you start heading toward the canyon. So, take the time to pack up what you need and get the rest of your supplies before leaving the coast. Bring water.
Lookouts and Viewpoints in Waimea and Koke’e
On your visit, we recommend driving around to the different lookouts that offer different perspectives of the canyon. Here are the main places to visit:
- Waimea Canyon Lookout: This is the main viewing area for the canyon and offers panoramic views, allowing you to go right up to the rim. This should be the first lookout you visit because it gives you the most expansive view of the canyon.
- Puʻu Hinahina Lookout: From Puʻu Hinahina, you can see how the Waimea River winds its way through the canyon. You’ll be surprised to see how different the canyon looks from this angle, and it will give you a good sense of the height and steepness of its walls.
- Kalalau Lookout: The view at the Kalalau Lookout showcases the tall cliffs of the Nāpali Coast and the ocean along the northwest coast of Kauaʻi. Kalalau Valley is the destination of the 11-mile Kalalau Trail which begins on the north shore at Keʻe Beach.
Taking a Helicopter Tour
Taking a helicopter ride over Waimea Canyon is one of the most epic (and breathtaking) ways to experience Waimea Canyon – the ultimate vantage point, that allows you to see it from above in all its glory.
We lifted off from the Port Allen airport and headed over towards the Waimea Canyon and weaved our way through the mountains then out along the coast for an exciting and extremely pleasant narrated flight, culminating in a drop down into the mouth of the central volcano, where we were surrounded by cascading waterfalls dropping thousands of feet from the top of the mountains into the core of the volcano. It was absolutely fabulous, one of the best things I have ever experienced while traveling.
One of the first sights we headed over was Manawaiopuna Falls (as seen in Jurassic Park) at right above.
Na’Pali Blowhole (above)
The we headed out along the Na’Pali Coastline and towards Haena, where we were staying, which made me particularly happy because I would be able to take aerial photos. It’s not often I get to ride in a helicopter and I intended to take full advantage of the opportunity.
I had asked for a “doors off” tour, which means that the doors were taken off on my side for me during the flight. This allowed me an unobstructed view. Since I was securely strapped in and I felt fine.
Most companies offer one or more tours that focus on something specific, be it a certain part of the island, such as the Nāpali Coast or Waimea Canyon, or a particular interest, like photography. These tours don’t cover as much ground, but will give you extended time in one area or on one subject. We took an extended tour because we wanted to see the Na’pali coastline, then fly over Haena and that specific shoreline before flying back across and through the central canyon and since there were only four of us in the copter, our Pilot accommodated us.
This is a trip not to be missed if you are ever visiting Kauai. We recommend Island Helicopter Tours, as they are headquartered closest to the coastline, which means more time sightseeing and less time flying over populated areas.
The Weeping Walls
Located near the centre of Hawaii’s lush island of Kauai, The Weeping Walls are made up of multiple, possibly hundreds, of waterfalls that cascade down the different grooves of Mount Waialeale — one of the wettest places on Earth.
The mountain alone, covered in shades of emerald green and reaching 5,066 feet into the sky, is awe-inspiring. Add the stark white lines of the waterfalls and the misty clouds that drape over the cliffs and you have a perfectly dreamy oasis. Mount Waialeale, which in Native Hawaiian means “rippling water” or “overflowing water,” might look foreboding, it is actually surprisingly accessible on foot. We simply did not have time on this trip and part of me thinks that is because we didn’t know about the hiking in to the base of the falls.
On the large shot above of the main waterfall, the pilot had flown into the canyon and I asked him to turn the helicopter sideways so we were facing straight down. He said we were 4,000 feet straight up when he turned the helicopter sideways. I was strapped in and with no door on the ‘copter, I managed to snag this once in a lifetime photo.
Ke’e Beach
Traveling further along the north shore of Kauai ends at one of the most popular beaches on the island – Ke‘e Beach. The beach marks the end of Highway 560 and the portion of Kaua‘i that can be seen by car.
In my opinion, the beach should be renamed ‘Chicken Beach’. We visited a couple of times but were not impressed. There were too many people and too many of the irritating roosters and chickens that populate the island everywhere you go, but K’ee Beach was particularly annoying, so we visited once then came back to watch the sunset and concentrated on the less popular spots, which dot the entire island. We also saw multiple cars parked here than had been vandalized. It’s pretty remote at this point and some people leave their cars there while going off hiking the Kalalau Trail for hours. We had been warned by the car rental agency to be careful here and we could see why.
But is sure is pretty from the air as we flew over.
From Ke’e Beach on, the rest of north Kaua‘i is occupied by the Na’Pali Coast, a series of rugged seaside cliffs stretching along the northwest shore that is not navigable by vehicle. The famous Kalalau Trail also begins here. We decided that we were not going to do the hike on this trip. It’s an 11-mile trail (22 miles in and out) that leads from Ke’e Beach to Kalalau Beach and I just didn’t think we were up to that type of hiking commitment during a one week visit. Writing this post now brings me a little regret we did not as it is one of the best hikes on the planet but I know in my heart that we are not the type of hikers to camp overnight. It’s good to know your limits… Sigh.
Limahuli Garden
Limahuli Garden and Preserve is located on the north shore of the island of Kauaʻi in one of the most biodiverse valleys in the Hawaiian Islands. It is home to dozens of endangered plants and birds found nowhere else on earth, including culturally-significant species in an authentic Hawaiian landscape. The 1,000-acre property in Limahuli Valley where it is located was bought by Ms. Juliet Rice Wichman in 1967. Ms. Wichman was a Hawaiian conservationist and botanist known for her work in preserving Hawaiian culture.
Limahuli Garden is a puʻuhonua (place of refuge) for an ecological system that honors the connection between nature and humanity, where indigenous traditions live in the 21st Century. For at least 1,500 years, the Limahuli Valley has been a Hawaiian place.
Today, Limahuli is one of of the last easily-accessible valleys with intact archaeological complexes, native forest, pristine stream, and the presence of the descendants of the valley’s original inhabitants caring for it.
It is easy to visit and enjoy a short walk through ancient terraces of kalo (taro) and cascading water. The trail is 0.75 mile long, with an elevation change of about 200 feet. You can also easily hike to the top of the Whale Trail, where you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the ocean and mountains, including Kauaʻi’s iconic Mt. Makana, also known as Bali Hai.
Guided tours are available but we simply enjoyed wandering the gardens on our own.
Yim on the Na’Pali Coast with The Forbidden Island in the distance
Hanalei Farmers Market
Every Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to noon, the Hanalei Farmers Market is open every Saturday from 9:30 until Noon so we thought that would be a nice outing where we could buy some fresh food and maybe find something interesting to bring home with us. It’s held on a large grassy lawn off Malolo Road and covered with more than 50 stalls. TOf course, the Na’Pali Mountains are the dominating feature but on this day, something else coaught our attention.
We were busy shopping, I was looking at a photographers booth and admiring his photography when I turned and standing directly in front of me was Pierce Brosnan. He’s a big guy. much bigger than I imagined, and I turned to Yim who was busy looking at something and said, “Pssst!. Yim, Yim!”, and she looked up and James Bond himself was directly in front of her. I was a little speechless because I had been told during our stay that he lived in Haena but I never in a thousand years expected we would walk into him. He wandered off like a local and I managed to get one snap of him just being a regular guy, which I liked.
I could go on and on about this trip. Secret Beach, Hanalei Beach, Hanaeli Town and so many other spots which I have not even mentioned. Kaua’i is an incredible place to visit and we made the best of our one week stay.
If you go, I hope this post has provided some thoughts on what you would do on your trip there.
Mahola
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